The 1967 Chevrolet Camaro uses hydraulic lines to transfer brake fluid from the master cylinder to the calipers and wheel cylinders at each wheel. Over time, the steel lines attached to the vehicle's frame can rust and begin to leak, and the rubber lines that connect the calipers and wheel cylinders to the steel lines can become brittle with age and leak. Replacing hydraulic brake lines is within the abilities of the home mechanic and can be done with only a few simple tools.
Tools Used: Floor jack, Jack stands, Wrench set, Socket set, Brake fluid
Install Brake Lines
Removing a Brake Line
On a level surface, raise the vehicle and support with jack stands placed underneath the frame or axles. Never work under a car held up only by a jack. Remove the wheels.
Remove the cap on the master cylinder, which will be located on the driver's side of the engine bay on the firewall (behind the dashboard). Drain the brake fluid from the cylinder.
Disconnect the brake line from the master cylinder or proportioning valve by loosening the fitting. Follow the brake line and remove the brake line retention brackets that hold the steel line to the frame.
Disconnect the rubber brake line from from the wheel cylinder or brake caliper. The flexible rubber lines will attach to the steel lines on the frame. Remove the brake line from the vehicle.
Installing a Brake Line
Connect the new rubber brake lines to each wheel cylinder or brake caliper, and also to the new metal brake lines. Follow the metal brake line towards the master cylinder and reinstall the bolts and clips that secure the brake line to the frame. Reconnect the brake line to the master cylinder or proportioning valve.
Bleeding the Brake System
It is best to have another person assist you with filling the brake system with fluid and bleeding air from the lines. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with fresh brake fluid. Do not allow the master cylinder to run dry at any time during the bleeding process.
Attach a small length of clear hose to the bleeder valve on the master cylinder. Submerge the other end of the tube in a container filled with brake fluid. Make sure the hose stays submerged in the brake fluid at all times to prevent air from entering the lines.
Have an assistant inside the vehicle operate the brake pedal. Pump the brake pedal up and down a few times and then hold it down. Open the bleeder valve on the master cylinder while your assistant holds the pedal down. After you open the valve, the brake pedal will slowly fall towards the floor. Close the valve just before the brake pedal reaches the floor.
Repeat the process and watch the brake fluid flowing through the clear tube. Continue bleeding the master cylinder until no air bubbles appear in the tube.
If there is a bleeder valve on the proportioning valve, bleed it next using the technique listed above.
Move to the wheel closest to the master cylinder. On most vehicles this will be the left front. Bleed this wheel using the technique listed above, except use the bleeder valve on the wheel cyclinder.
Continue bleeding the brakes at each wheel in the following order: right front, left rear and finally right rear. Reinstall the wheels and tires. Lower the vehicle.
Tips & Warnings
Do not shake the brake fluid bottle before adding fluid to the master cylinder. It will only add more air to the hydraulic circuit.
Brake fluid can strip the paint off metal. Do not allow brake fluid to come in contact with any of the painted surfaces on your vehicle.
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